The 47 Ronin and my visit to the Sengaku-ji Temple

I feel very compelled to reflect on something that I think I took for granted - an experience I didn't actually feel as honored to have had when I had it.

I recently went to Japan this past winter, and it fulfilled me in more ways then I can accurately describe. The culture, it's people, it's history - all things that I've wanted to experience and feel since I first learned about Japan.

Now, it's not to trip that I feel I took for granted, but a place that we visited on the very last day of our 2 week trip to the island. That trip was to Sengaku-ji Temple, to burial site of the 47 Ronin, Lord Asano, and Lady Asano.

If you've no idea what or who the 47 Ronin are, this might make little sense as to why I feel so ashamed as to have taken so little time to acknowledge my visit. To me, we were just visiting another tourist site, but it is so much more. Let me share just why by giving you a brief introduction to the tale.

The 47 Ronin were what was left of over 120 Samurai who served Lord Asano, the county lord of Ako. Lord Asano was sentenced to death after striking at a man, Kira Kozukenosuke, who insulted his family name. The strike left Kira severely wounded, but not dead. Shortly thereafter, Asano's land was seized and his family now cast from the record books.

Oishi Kuranosuke, the retainer of the remaining Ronin (lordless Samurai), vowed to take revenge on Kira for insulting their late Lord and the name Asano. The Ronin were, unfortunately, watched very closely by Kira and the House of Uesugi, who had adopted Kira into their ranks. Oishi was watched particularly close, with a spy stationed outside his house for nearly 2 years. It came to the point where, in order to even get the chance to strike at Kira, the Samurai had to soil their respectable names by pretending to be farmers, peasants, and even woman chasing drunks, in order to convince the ever watching forces that they'd given up in trying to pursue any thought of revenge.

Like a true samurai, their dedication and discipline paid off, and the spies were recalled. Shortly thereafter, nearly 2 years after the death of their lord, the remaining forces gathered in Edo (what is now Tokyo for the most part) to plan their actions. Only 47 samurai were left to launch the attack on Kira, which happened on December 14th, 1702. The battle itself lasted only a few hours, but once Kira was defeated, with only 6 injured, the Samurai marched, I believe some 14+ miles, to Sengaku-ji Temple, where Lord Asano was buried, and presented the severed head of Kira to their deceased lord.

After much debate, 46 of the Ronin (excluding one of the youngest, who was sent by Oishi to Ako to tell the people of Kira's defeat) were sentence to sepukku (honorable suicide) and buried next to their lord. The one remaining Samurai (17 at the time) lived to be 75, and was buried with his fellow samurai at Sengaku-ji temple.



I justed finished reading The 47 Ronin Story by John Allyn, which mainly details the based on real fact story of Oishi Kuranosuke as lead retainer of the samurai. After reading this story, I've come to realize the true power and sacrifice this story displays. Assuming that the true facts and details towards the life stories of a lot of these men are lost to history, one true fact remains - the men made the ultimate sacrifice for a goal and purpose, and followed it through for honor and justice. Reading the book seemed to put it into perspective just how historically important these men were. What they stood for. What they accomplished.

And I was there.

well, in a sense. I walked on the same ground they did. Saw the same pool they washed the head of Kira in. Looked at the same grave site that Oishi did where his Lord was buried.

I inadvertently wandered up a small hill while at Sengaku-ji temple, not really knowing what I was looking for. Something about the area though - it seemed to call me towards it. It was inviting, and peaceful. At the top of the hill was a small gravestone that was fenced off from the public. I stood and stared at it for a good 5 minutes. I can't to this day tell you why I did. I just felt compelled to stay there and not move. I took a photo of a fenced off grave and turned back towards the group, not really giving it much else thought.

It wasn't until I finished the book, and did a little research online about the grave site that I realized the importance of that gravestone. I found this picture online, and it was labeled, "Oishi headstone. Sengakuji Temple, Tokyo, Japan"



Knowing that I went to the grave site at Sengaku-ji, I scrolled back through my pictures, and noticed that the grave I found on top of that small incline was none other then Oishi's grave.


(picture I got by holding the camera up over the top of the fence)


Anyway, I guess what I wanted to say was this:
Looking back on what these men did, and the sacrifices they made makes my trip to Sengaku-ji temple all the more powerful. The fact that they have been there, and preserved for over 300 years is a feat in itself, but also tells a lot about the respect and honor the Japanese people have for these fallen warriors. I wish I could go back and see it again, knowing about them what I know now.

Perhaps I will one day. Go back to the land of the rising sun, and visit this ancient warriors one more time, and truly honor them in the fashion they deserve.